Eight Questions for Donna Leon

Author Donna Leon pens delicious mysteries -- all set in Venice and all centered on the delightful detective Guido Brunetti.  Ms. Leon, an American, spent her early adulthood traveling the world as a teacher, but she settled in Venice and has lived there for decades.  Her books are international bestsellers and are translated into 20 languages, but they were not readily available in the United States until just a few years ago.  Thankfully, now they are.

I'd hoped to meet Ms. Leon and interview her in person while in Venice, but she is a busy woman and will be out of town while I am there.  She was most gracious, though, and agreed to answer a few questions via email. 


AKN: You are both traveler and writer and have lived all over the world. How did you come to settle down in Venice?
Donna Leon: I first came to Venice, as a tourist, in 1968 and was lucky enough to make a friendship with two Venetians, who later married. For the next fifteen years, I came back to visit them at least once or twice a year and was gradually absorbed into their families. Thus, when I finally decided to settle down, I decided to come to the one place where I knew most people and felt most at home. They remain, almost thirty years later, my best friends here.

AKN: Venice is a city renowned for its ex-pat community. For centuries now the British and Americans, particularly, have taken up residence there. Is it easy to immerse yourself in an Italian life as part of an ex-pat community? Or do you find comfort in being able to speak and think in English as well as in Italian?
Donna Leon: I don't know the ex-pat community and know only two Americans here, neither of whom, to the best of my knowledge, is part of that community. Most of my friends are either Venetian or Italian. Thus I write in English but live in Italian.

AKN: Tell us about the birth of your protagonist, Guido Brunetti. Now eighteen books later, how has your relationship with your charming Commissario changed?
Donna Leon: When I began the first book, I had the good sense to choose a man I'd find sympathetic. Thus he is decent, intelligent, well-read, and has a sense of humor. He also enjoys the physical pleasures of life. After nineteen years, he has become a friend with whose thinking and prejudices I am familiar, just as I am with those of my other friends.

AKN: Your books are all set in Venice – a fabled and often romanticized city. Do you strive for an authentic Venice, or do you find yourself changing the city to suit your literary needs?
Donna Leon: This is the only place I've ever lived as an adult, thus it is the only city with which I am familiar. I suspect it is fabled, certainly it is romanticized, by non-Venetians. To those of us who live here it is merely a provincial city with crowded streets but which, upon occasion, can startle with it beauty and magnificence. I don't change anything.

AKN: Commissario Brunetti inhabits a world filled with art, music, and literature. He’s married to a teacher. He lives in a city where the arts are central to the economy as well as the culture. He solves a crime which occurs at La Fenice, Venice’s opera house. This is unusual for a detective novel series. Why are the arts so important in your books?
Donna Leon: You write as though you find it surprising that life should be lived with art, surrounded by and immersed in beauty. Art, by the way, is not central to the economy of Venice: cheap masks and plastic gondolas are. I'm afraid we're at loggerheads here, in a sense: I would not be interested in reading a book about a hard-drinking semi-thug who spent his time attending autopsies - heavens forbid I should waste my time writing one. It's also unusual for a detective to read Anna Comnena. But I do, so Brunetti does. He's married to a professor of literature, by the way. Arts and culture and music are important in the books because the books are a reflection of life, as novels are meant to be. Is a life without those things preferable or is that the norm? Beats me.

AKN: "The Girl of His Dreams" treads into the thorny question asked by many Italians, “What do we do with the Roma?” How did you research the Roma (commonly known as “gypsies”) for this novel? What kind of conversations have you had with Italians about the gypsies in Italy?
Donna Leon: I know one or two Roma, know police who arrest them, listen to what Italians say about them. And I read a lot. In general, Italians aren't very fond of them.

AKN: You travel a great deal. When you return to Venice, what is the perfect way to spend a day in Venice? Where do you go and where do you eat.
Donna Leon: I usually work in the morning, then meet my best friend for coffee, come back and work until seven, then either have friends to dinner or go to the home of a friend. In the afternoon I often go for a walk, not for any purpose, but to see a part of the city with which I am not familiar. If I do go to dinner, it's to Antico Martini or Cafe Saraceno.
AKN:  Many thanks!

Fans of Ms. Leon's books will be interested in the interactive map on her UK webpage.  Check out http://www.donnaleon.co.uk and click on "Donna's Venice" to read excerpts from her books and spot their locations on a map.  A more complete list of locations featured in Ms. Leon's book can be found here.  And author Toni Sepeda has penned Brunetti's Venice: Walks with the City's Best-Loved Detective, a guide to Venice as seen through Commissario Brunetti's lens. 

Donna Leon's books include Dressed for Death, Death in a Strange Country, Acqua Alta, Quietly in Their Sleep, A Noble Radiance, Suffer the Little Children, and The Girl of His Dreams.  Her latest book, About Face, debuted in April.  All of Donna Leon's books are available in The Gypsy's Store.

Venice: A Reading List

Reading in anticipation of a trip is one of my greatest pleasures.  As I've been preparing for my trip to Venice, here are a few books I've been reading lately...


Guide Books

DK Eyewitness Top 10 Venice by Gillian Price
The DK books are heavy on photos and strip the text down to the essentials. However, I like the thematic approach to Top 10 Venice. Using the lists you could spend a day searching out the top 10 churches, palaces, or bridges -- and see a lot of Venice along the way. These books are particularly good for those who love museums but aren’t sure what’s important to see. Top 10 Venice sets out lists for each of the major museums (all listed on the Top 10 Museums list) with what to see and a sentence or two about why it is important. This is a great book for the cruise set, and it is also family-friendly. Many children enjoy the DK Eyewitness books, and with Top 10 Venice, young readers can help to set the family itinerary.

Frommer’s Venice Day by Day by Stephen Brewer*
First off, let me say that the best part of Venice Day by Day is at the very back. There is a clever little plastic pouch containing a fold-out map of the islands. And I have to say it isn’t so big that it is cumbersome nor is it so tiny that it is illegible. Like Goldilocks, I think it is just right.

Billed as “23 smart ways to see the city” Frommer’s Venice Day by Day is clearly aimed at the average traveler in Venice. Since the vast majority of Venice’s visitors arrive and spend fewer than 24 hours on the island, the book features itineraries for seeing “the best” of Venice in one, two or three days -- fantastic for people on cruises who want to skip the pre-packaged excursions and see the city’s pleasures independently. Venice Day by Day also sets out thematic itineraries including “Venice’s Best Churches,” “Art in Venice,” “Venice’s Most Memorable Views,” and “Places to Escape the Crowds.” However, most of them represent a very ambitious day of touring, so if you are looking for specific itineraries, know that you may not be able to accomplish all of those sites in one day.
Both Venice Day by Day and Top 10 Venice are packed with ideas about where to go, but each location is reduced to a sentence or two, so you may want a second volume along to know what you are seeing once you get there. 

Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto by Jonathan Buckley
It’s big. It is full of information. And it is helpful. Looking for photos? You won’t find them in the Rough Guide and the hotel recommendations are a little vague. But if you are spending more than a few days in Venice and the Veneto, this is the book for you. The content about the Veneto (the mainland near Venice) is very complete, too, which is helpful for those wanting to visit Padua, Verona, or Treviso. My big complaint: the maps. They are poorly divided in the book,and my map pages fell out after one day of use.

Art/Shop/Eat Venice by Paul Blanchard
Books like Frommer’s and Top 10 are great in preparation for the trip, but once I’ve decided where to go, Art/Shop/Eat Venice goes in my camera bag for the day’s excursion. It doesn’t give you information about everything. But Art/Shop/Eat Venice hits all of the highlights, gives detailed information about each location, and confines itself to my favorite diversions in Venice: museums and galleries, restaurants and cafes, and charming shops where you can buy locally-made goodies. The museum content is particularly good including highlights from each major museum, biographical information about artists like Titian and Canova, historical information, and maps of most of the major museums. Art/Shop/Eat is a manageable size -- perfect to throw in a purse or camera bag, and the city maps are quite good, too.
A Traveller’s History of Venice by Peter Mentzel
For history buffs, this is a must-read before departing for Venice. The island city’s history is fascinating, and Mentzel’s prose is clear and compelling. Beginning with a chapter entitled “Barbarians and Refugees: 450-828,” A Traveller’s History of Venice unfolds the political, religious, and sensual history of Italy’s most unique city from its beginnings to today. In addition to the historical discussion, Mentzel also includes several helpful lists including a timeline of major events, a list of the Doges, a map and list of churches and synagogues, and a discussion of that great symbol of Venice: the gondola.
A Word about Maps

A good map of Venice is very important. The labyrinthine city lends itself to getting hopelessly, romantically lost without fear. Even if you don’t know where you are, you are never very far from where you are going. That said, if you find the maps in your guidebook to be inadequate, stop by the ticket booth at the Ferrovia vaporetto stop. Here you can buy the city’s official guide: Easyguide Venice and the Islands. The guidebook isn’t all that interesting, but the map is accurate and very detailed. The Easyguide is available in multiple languages, too.


For the Armchair Traveler:
This is Venice by M. Sasek
A charming and informative book about Venice, This is Venice is intended for children, but their parents will learn just as much. With quirky illustrations and even slightly-odd text, This is Venice is not the treacly fodder so often disguised as travel books for children. Rather, This is Venice answers the questions children ask: Why aren’t there any cars in Venice? What is that boat called? How big is a gondola? And can I feed the pigeons?
The City of Falling Angels by John Berendt
(non-fiction) Author John Berendt paints a complicated and fascinating picture of the burning and rebuilding of La Fenice, Venice’s famed opera house. On January 29, 1996 the opera house burned to the ground. Berendt investigates the allegations of arson, corruption, and malfeasance, and in the process reveals a seamy side of a beautiful city.
No Vulgar Hotel by Judith Martin
(memoir) Judith Martin, more commonly known as Miss Manners, spends a great deal of her time with the ex-patriot crowd in Venice. Her memoir is both a love letter to her adopted home as well as a means for name-dropping and bragging. Nonetheless, it is a good read.
The Glassblower of Murano by Marian Fiorato
Glassblower Leonora Manin's marriage falls apart in London.  Her ex-husband marries his mistress.  And Leonora falls into a deep depression which cripples her until she decides to leave it all behind to move to Venice.  There she connects with her ancient family's history and redirects her own future as a result.  Fascinating!



A Stopover in Venice by Kathryn Walker
(fiction) Walker’s protagonist, Nel Everett, does what so many visitors to Venice dream of: she simply steps out of her life and stays. She then must build a life for herself in her new home.




Donna Leon writes atypical detective novels set in Venice. Her most recent books are:
Read my interview with Donna Leon tomorrow!


All of the books I’ve included on this list and more are available at The Gypsy’s Store. Ciao!

*Frommers sent me a review copy of Venice Day by Day.

Must See Museums: Caravaggio in Chicago

October 10, 2009 - January 31, 2010
Yesterday the Art Institute of Chicago opened an exhibit of Caravaggio's The Supper at Emmaus, a powerful example of Caravaggio's masterful use of light and dark. Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio's work is rare -- only a few dozen of his paintings exist. And most of them are in European collections. Indeed The Supper at Emmaus is on loan from the National Gallery of London.

Caravaggio (1571-1610), an Italian painter who worked largely in Rome, is often credited with beginning what we know as modern painting. He focused on the play of light and dark on scenes willed with drama and action producing paintings which were acclaimed in his own day and which are now revered. And yet, his own life was tempestuous as he had a proclivity for violence and brawling which lead to both legal and financial problems for the popular artist.

The Art Institute of Chicago is one of the world's finest art collections, and Caravaggio's The Supper at Emmaus is worthy of a special trip to see it.

Visit the museum's website to see a photo of the painting and for more information about visits:
The Art Institute of Chicago: Exhibitions: (view on Google Sidewiki)